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The world's demand for "maegaki" quality
In the world of waterproof jackets such as rainwear and hard shells, which require perfect waterproofing in harsh environments, rainwear made using GORE-TEX has long been said to be outstanding for its high waterproof performance.
It is well known that one of the reasons for this is that GORE-TEX products must meet strict standards from the provider Gore at many stages, from design to final product samples and manufacturing.
When actually producing, only factories that are recognized as capable of passing these strict standards and tests are permitted to manufacture, so a factory that can produce GORE-TEX products cannot be an incredible factory in terms of their technology and quality.
It was only recently that I learned that one of the factories that was allowed to manufacture them, one of the rainwear manufacturers that has been constantly receiving orders from world-renowned top outdoor brands is in Japan, Ishikawa Prefecture, also known as the textile kingdom.
Over 100 years since its founding, we have been making cutting-edge, high-performance rainwear, including GORE-TEX rainwear, for over 30 years, and are still producing rainwear for global brands, Maegaki Co., Ltd. located in Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture.
Maegaki is now launching a new factory brand, with everything from planning to manufacturing in-house.
So, at Outdoor Gearzine, we will be sharing several times about the secrets of the production of GORE-TEX items that I personally wanted to know for a long time, and what kind of product the new brand is about to be unveiled at Makuake.
GORE-TEX rainwear is all about brands, products, materials, and factories.
The person who spoke to me was Mr. Sagoshi from Maegaki Co., Ltd.
What is the difference between making GORE-TEX products compared to making other common rainwear?
"It is true that GORE-TEX products can only be made in certified factories. We have been certified in Japan for over 30 years, and in factories in China and Vietnam. However, this is not limited to factories. For example, if someone launches a new outdoor brand and orders a GORE-TEX product from us, it is almost impossible. If you first get certified by Gore as a brand worthy of creating a GORE-TEX product, then you will not even be allowed to plan it.
In addition, with GORE-TEX, seam tape processing, the key to waterproof clothing, you can only use seam tape specified by Gore, rather than commercially available seam tape. This may be a bit unpleasant in some respects, but because the tape is made of the same material as the lining material, it will blend in well when applied and less likely to peel off, and the overall waterproofness and quality of the clothing is guaranteed. Even these small details are perfectly controlled by GORE-TEX clothing.
One of the main reasons for its high quality is that GORE-TEX products are born for the first time when a brand that has been approved in this way uses approved materials, passes approved tests in an approved factory. ”
The left is GORE-TEX seam tape. Made from the exact same material as the lining. For seam tapes from other clothing, like the ones on the right, they are not necessarily made from the exact same material.
"These products that have passed the world's strictest standards are unlike any other. We also manufacture rainwear other than GORE-TEX, so we have created rainwear with a variety of concepts. What we feel is that there is clearly a big difference in ability between designs created by designers who have made GORE-TEX clothing and designs by designers who have not made GORE-TEX clothing. In the case of rainwear that is not GORE-TEX, there are sometimes things that can be easily seen as "a design like this can't be waterproof." Those with experience in designing GORE-TEX products know not only how they look, but also how to function as waterproof clothing. In such cases, we often make suggestions to follow up on design roughness. ”
The highest level of waterproofing is dependent on each movement of the craftsman.
We then asked about the main topic, what is the quality of excellent rainwear shows.
The excellent seam tape crimping treatment is said to be an essential technology for its high waterproofness.
"To the average user, it may seem obvious that rainwear with seam tape on the lining will not leak. However, whether all of the waterproof products in the world have proper waterproofing functions (not as the performance of the fabric itself, but as sewn clothing), is not the case in reality, and when a slightly harsh rainwear comes out of the sweet parts of the fabric as soon as possible, it will soon become flooded from the sweet parts. If all rainwear in the world is subjected to the rain test, the GORE-TEX waterproof test, there are probably many models that will soon come out of the rags.
Particularly important for the waterproofness of rainwear is the adhesion of seam tape, which is a part to prevent water from flooding through seams, etc. The seam tape is heat-pressed and glued waterproof fabric along the seams.
The seam tape heat-compression treatment machine is even taken into consideration to ensure that hot air and evaporated glue do not affect the human body.
If you simply apply seam tape along a straight seam, it may seem relatively easy at first glance. However, when it comes to seam tape processing at complicated parts such as the top and bottom ends of the zipper and the overlapping seams under the armpits, it is actually not easy to adhere neatly and firmly.
Therefore, we adjust the strength of the pressure when applying it (even if it is too strong it will cause pain, or if it is too weak it will become weak), the temperature of the heat to be sprayed, and the speed at which it progresses separately, etc., depending on the quality of the fabric and the location where it is pressed.
Areas with steps and parts with complex curves also require the skilled skill and intuition of the craftsman.
Furthermore, skill is required when operating the machine where you apply the tape. It is natural that the tape is crimped straight without any shaking, but with more skilled techniques, you can instantly crimp long tapes without stopping. When the work stops, the heat dissipation of the crimp stops in that area, which is a bit tricky, but the adhesion becomes weak. If you look closely at the product, which has a clean, neat and secure seam tape, you will notice that the glue subtly sticks out on the side of the seam tape. This protrusion is important to prevent the tape from peeling off, but it should not be too protruding.
Maegaki's rainwear is made by stacking these small details, and in the middle of the manufacturing process, water resistance is checked regularly with a set part at a specified time, making sure that it is always waterproof. This is because we believe that this will lead to a sense of quality, solidity and stability of the product as a whole. There is a solid reason why Maegaki's rain test also boasts a high pass rate. ”
Machines that measure water resistance are always available in the factory, and the production is carried out while confirming that waterproofness is guaranteed even during the process.
Maegaki's new challenge - launching Makuake project for factory brand "F/ACSION" -
Maegaki has been manufacturing the highest quality waterproof clothing, including GORE-TEX, for a long time, and is taking on a new challenge.
F/ACSION is a factory brand that uses the highest standard of waterproof clothing manufacturing technology that has been sought by top outdoor brands around the world, and offers a wide range of urban all-weather clothing that allows you to enjoy the high quality not only outdoors but also everyday life.
Pre-sale at special prices will begin on Makuake from Tuesday, December 17th. check out Makuake tomorrow !
What is the concept of this brand and what features and appeal does it have? Details will continue next time!
