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"Maegaki" quality desired by the world
In the world of rainwear and waterproof jackets such as hard shells, which require perfect waterproofing in harsh environments, rainwear made with GORE-TEX has long been said to stand out for its reliable waterproof performance
One of the reasons for this is that GORE-TEX products are known to meet strict standards set by their supplier, Gore, at many stages of production, from design to final product samples and manufacturing
When it comes to actual production, only factories that are recognized as being able to meet these strict standards and tests are allowed to manufacture, so a factory that can produce GORE-TEX products cannot be one that is half-hearted in terms of technology and quality
It was only recently that I learned that one of the factories authorized to manufacture rainwear, which receives a steady stream of orders from the world's top outdoor brands, is located in Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan, known as the textile kingdom
Maegami Co., Ltd., located in Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture, has been in business for over 100 years and has been producing cutting-edge, high-performance rainwear, including GORE-TEX rainwear, for over 30 years.The manufacturer is still producing rainwear for global brands
Maegaki is now launching a new factory brand, with everything from planning to manufacturing being done in-house
So, in this issue of Outdoor Gearzine, I will be sharing with you over several articles about the secrets of manufacturing GORE-TEX items, something I have personally wanted to know for a long time, as well as what kind of products the new brand that will be unveiled on Makuake has to offer
GORE-TEX rainwear requires high standards in brand, product, materials, and factory
The person who spoke to us was Mr. Sagoe from Maegaki Co., Ltd
What makes GORE-TEX products different from other types of rainwear?
"It's certainly true that GORE-TEX products can only be made in certified factories. We've been certified in Japan for over 30 years, and our factories in China and Vietnam have been certified as well. But that doesn't just apply to factories. For example, if someone were to start a new outdoor brand and try to order GORE-TEX products from us, it would be virtually impossible. You can't even plan a project unless you first receive certification from Gore as a brand worthy of making GORE-TEX products
Furthermore, when it comes to seam tape processing, which is the key to waterproof clothing, in the case of GORE-TEX, only seam tape designated by Gore can be used, not commercially available seam tape. While this may be inconvenient in some ways, because the tape is made of the same material as the lining, it fits well when applied and is less likely to come off, ensuring the waterproofness and quality of the clothing as a whole. Even such small details are perfectly controlled in GORE-TEX clothing
Only after an approved brand, approved design, using approved materials, in an approved factory, and passing approved tests can a GORE-TEX product be produced, which is one of the main reasons for its high quality
The left is GORE-TEX seam tape. It is made of the exact same material as the lining. As shown on the right, seam tape for other clothing is not necessarily made of the exact same material
"Products that pass these world's most stringent standards are truly unique. We also manufacture non-GORE-TEX rainwear, so we have created rainwear with a variety of concepts. What I feel is that there is a clear difference in ability between designs made by designers who have experience making GORE-TEX wear and those who have not. With non-GORE-TEX rainwear, sometimes you can immediately tell that a design like this will never be waterproof. Those with experience designing GORE-TEX products know not only how it looks, but also how to ensure that it functions properly as waterproof wear. In such cases, we often make suggestions to address any design flaws."
The highest level of waterproofing is embodied in every single movement of the craftsman
Now we got to the main topic, and asked what aspects of excellent rainwear reflect its quality
It is said that excellent seam tape crimping processing is an essential technology for achieving high waterproofing
"For the average user, it may seem natural that rainwear with seam tape on the lining will not leak water. However, it is not true that all of the countless waterproof products available in the world have proper waterproofing (not in terms of the performance of the fabric itself, but as a sewn garment). In fact, poorly made rainwear will quickly let water in through the weak parts in even slightly heavy rain. If we were to subject all rainwear in the world to a rain test, which is the waterproofing test for GORE-TEX, I'm sure there would be many models that would quickly show signs of wear
Particularly important to the waterproofness of rainwear is the adhesion of seam tape, which is a part that prevents water from seeping in through seams, etc. Seam tape is attached by heat-pressing glued waterproof fabric along the seams
The seam tape heat sealing processing machine is designed with safety in mind to ensure that hot air and evaporated glue do not affect the human body
Applying seam tape along a straight seam may seem relatively easy at first glance, but when it comes to applying seam tape to complex areas such as the ends of zippers and the overlapping seams under the armpits, it is actually not so easy to achieve a neat and secure seal
Therefore, we adjust the strength of the pressure when applying the film (if it is too strong it will damage the fabric, and if it is too weak it will not be waterproof enough), the temperature of the heat sprayed, the speed of application, and so on, all individually depending on the quality of the fabric and the area to be pressed
Areas with unevenness or complex curves require the skilled techniques and intuition of a craftsman
Furthermore, skill is also required in operating the machine that applies the tape. It goes without saying that it must be pressed straight and without any wobble, but with even more skill, it is possible to press long lengths of tape in one go without stopping. If the operation stops, the heat dissipation from the press also stops in that area, so the adhesion becomes weak, albeit very delicately. If you look closely at a product with even, neat, and firmly adhered seam tape, you will notice that the glue has slightly protruded from the side of the seam tape. This protrusion is important to prevent the tape from peeling, but it should not protrude too much
Maegami's rainwear is made with such meticulous attention to detail, and is even checked for water resistance at regular intervals on specific parts at set times throughout the manufacturing process to ensure waterproofness is always guaranteed. This is because we believe that this leads to the quality, solidity, and stability of the product as a whole. There is a good reason why Maegami boasts a high pass rate in GORE-TEX rain tests
Machines that measure water resistance are always on hand in the factory, and production is carried out while checking that waterproofing is guaranteed even during the process
Maegaki's new challenge: Launching the factory brand "F/ACSION" Makuake project
Maegaki, which has long been manufacturing the highest quality waterproof clothing, including GORE-TEX, is now embarking on a new challenge
F/ACSION is a factory brand that utilizes the highest level of waterproof clothing manufacturing technology required by the world's top outdoor brands to offer a wide range of urban, all-weather clothing that can be enjoyed not only outdoors but also in everyday life, with high quality
Pre-sales at a special price will begin on Tuesday, December 17th on Makuake. If you're interested, check out Makuake !
What is the concept of this brand, and what are its features and appeal? More details to come next time!
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