Comparison Review: Summer, Hiking, Alps. 2018 Comparison of Lightweight Alpine Boots for Rocky Conditions

The summer mountain climbing season has begun, and I'm sure many people are considering which mountains they will climb this year

People have different plans, from low mountains near cities to long expeditions both domestically and internationally. The snow on the Northern and Southern Alps, which are somewhat inaccessible during the snowy mountain season, is melting, and many people are probably planning their Alps debut this summer

When it comes to the Alps, you need to be well prepared, not only in terms of planning but also in terms of clothing and equipment. Even in summer, there are still snowfields on the higher mountains, so you will need crampons to walk safely, and since many mountains are above the tree line, you will often be climbing rocky areas

It is possible to climb in trekking shoes with soft soles, but considering the risk of injury, you still need sturdy hiking boots that are suitable for the purpose. That's why today we'll be reviewing hiking boots that are recommended for mountains with many rocky ridges, such as the Northern and Southern Alps

table of contents

• About the items tested this time
• Test Results & Spec Comparison Table
• Impressions of each model
• Detailed review of each item (Page:2)
• Summary (Page 2)

About the hiking boots we compared this time

To walk safely on rocky ridges, hiking boots with hard soles and good protection are suitable. Of course, it's not impossible to climb in trekking shoes with soft soles. In fact, when I first started hiking, I used to climb in shoes that were little more than sneakers and could hardly be called hiking boots. However, while they were light and easy to walk in, fatigue accumulated below the knees (especially the soles of the feet) with every climb, and sprains and injuries were constant. The shoes themselves also wore out quickly, and sometimes I would wear out an entire pair in just one climb

With that in mind, I believe that hiking boots with hard soles and excellent waterproofing and durability are the best. If your feet hurt or get tired, you won't be able to enjoy your hike and it will become like a training or hardship

When it comes to hiking boots with hard, robust, and durable soles, you'll likely end up in categories like backpacking (long-distance hiking), light alpine, or mountaineering. However, even if the appearance and shape are similar, each manufacturer has its own unique materials, technology, and functionality, ranging from models specialized for rocky ridges to models with a certain degree of versatility. In particular, in Japan's high mountains, most trailheads involve walking through forested areas, passing the tree line, and reaching rocky areas. Therefore, it's not necessarily true that a uniformly rigid and robust model specialized for rocky ridges is the best. Walkability and comfort are also important factors. To begin this review, I've summarized my selection criteria below

•  A model aimed at backpacking and light alpine skiing
•  Climbing zone on the sole
•  There is a welt on the heel so that semi-one-touch crampons can be worn

With the selection criteria now clear, we moved on to choosing specific manufacturers and models. However, since most major hiking boot manufacturers, such as Scarpa, Sportiva, Zamberlan, and Garmont, are European, and especially Italian, comparing only Italian manufacturers would be a bit boring. Therefore, we imposed a mysterious new restriction of one pair per country, settling on three pairs: Sportiva (Italy), Rover (Germany), and The North Face (USA). We originally wanted to add other manufacturers such as Mammut (Switzerland) and Sirio (Japan), but we were concerned that increasing the number would dilute the content of each review, so we limited ourselves to three pairs this time

• LA SPORTIVA TRANGO TOWER GTX®
• LOWA CEVEDALE PRO GT
• THE NORTH FACE Verbera Lightpacker III GORE-TEX

Test environment

The test period lasted approximately two months, from May to the end of June 2018. Testing was mainly conducted in the mountains of Okuchichibu, the Central Alps, and the Southern Alps. The walking distance per test was approximately 8 to 15 km, with different models being used for ascents and descents, and different models worn on each foot. Tests on rocky ridges were conducted in the mountains of Okuchichibu (Mount Kentoku and Mount Kinpu) to ensure all three pairs were tested under the same conditions. Further detailed test conditions are provided in the detailed reviews for each item

The evaluation criteria are based on the following five indicators. The evaluation results are based on my own judgment as the tester and are not objective in any way

1. Sole hardness and grip: essential for hard mountain climbing, such as carrying heavy luggage or walking on rocky ridges
2. Support: Prevents twisting of the ankle and slippage inside the shoe
3. Comfort, weight...how comfortable are they to wear and whether you can walk in them for long periods of time?
4. Durability: Protects the foot from external pressure such as friction and tearing
5. Compatibility with crampons: Ease of putting on and keeping crampons when crossing snowfields

Test Results & Spec Comparison Table

Impressions of each model

LA SPORTIVA TRANGO TOWER GTX®

High overall performance. Especially on rocky terrain, it performs exceptionally well

Here's what I like about it

• Effective traction and braking performance on rocky terrain
• Durable enough to walk on rocky terrain
• Balanced ankle support and mobility
• One-touch crampons fit easily

Here's △

• I wish there was more cushioning in the sole and insole
• price

This is the latest model in the extensive Trango series, which includes Cube, Alp Evo, S Evo, and Guide EvoTrango Tower GTXAs an evolution of the Trango S Evo, the design follows the S Evo's slim shape and racing car-like form. The honeycomb fabric on the upper is originally a material that increases abrasion resistance, but it also contributes greatly to the cool look. In recent years, there have been many hybrid mountaineering boots with leather and nylon placed in the right places, but personally I think this is by far the coolest

Of course, it's not just the looks that make it great; it's also robust and functional, with a double layer of rubber on the toe, which is the most vulnerable part of the shoe, as if to encourage climbing on rocky terrain (?). the Cevedale Pro GT it to, which may be why you feel the sensation on the sole of your foot more directly. However, even though the sole is thin, the shank (core material) makes it hard and prevents twisting, so it won't bend with just a little force. We actually tested it on a mountain with a lot of rocky terrain, and I think it grips the unevenness of the rocks well, and when climbing, you can feel the traction that sticks to the rocks.

Furthermore, on downhill descents, the shoes gripped the rocks firmly and did not slip even when walking roughly. The sole used in these shoes is the same model as the Trango Cube, and it seems to combine traction, braking, and shock absorption, and I think the traction and braking performance is impeccable

On the other hand, the remaining shock absorption performance was not outstanding, and I felt fatigue and tiredness in the entire sole of my foot after walking for a long time. However, this may be because I got carried away and actively chose unstable footing for the test, and continued walking on that precarious footing for a long time (lol)

Overall, I tried to find any weak points, but honestly, I couldn't find any. If I had to point out one, it would be the insole. I think the cushioning of a shoe should be judged holistically, not just in the insole, but in combination with the midsole and outsole, but the construction feels a bit cheap. I feel like the shock absorption would be better if it were a little thicker. Well, if I had to point out one, that's it... so some people might not mind it at all

LOWA CEVEDALE PRO GT

Not only is it robustly built, but it also offers high levels of comfort and walkability!

Here's what I like about it

• Even when the laces are tightly fastened, the ankle movement is not restricted
• The perfect space for your toes allows them to move freely without pressure
• A good balance of walkability, comfort and durability, and high adaptability

Here's △

• Anyway, it's heavy
• price

Personally, the second best overall is Rover, a long-established German brandChevedare Pro GTWith a strong commitment to being 100% made in Europe, the company's TAHOE has gained strong support from its core fans. The Cevedale Pro GT reviewed here is positioned as the company's light alpine model

The first thing I noticed when I put my foot in was the spaciousness in the toe area. My foot is secured on both sides, but it's neither too tight nor too loose, giving it an exquisite fit. Wearing hiking socks increases the cushioning, so much so that I doubt many people will get foot pain while wearing these shoes. The thick ankle cuff and tongue appear to contribute to the walking comfort and unrestricted ankle movement, even when the laces are tightly fastened

Many people prefer not to lace up to the top lacing when climbing, as increasing the ankle's range of motion makes walking easier. However, with these boots, I felt no stress even when laced all the way up. In fact, if I didn't lace them all the way up, my ankle would be too free and I even feared I might sprain my ankle on the descent. The light alpine boots I've worn in the past have had stiff soles, making them difficult to walk on flat or gentle slopes. However, these boots have a flexible sole from the instep to the shin, making them comfortable to walk in under any circumstances. At the same time, they offer stability on rocky terrain, and the ability to move your toes allows you to brace yourself when stepping onto rocky terrain using only your toes, increasing your sense of security even on unstable footing. Through my testing, I felt that these boots offer a good balance of walkability, comfort, and durability, making them a reliable shoe that can handle any situation

The only drawback was the weight. They're leather shoes, so they're naturally heavy, but at about 841g per shoe (UK size 8.5), they're comparable in weight to winter hiking boots, which is a bit of a stretch by modern standards (lol). One other thing to add is that there aren't many hiking equipment stores that have them on display and for sale. That's a shame, because they're good shoes

THE NORTHFACE Verbera Lightpacker III GORE-TEX

This versatile introductory model is particularly easy to walk in among light alpine skis, and is suitable for everything from day trips to the Alps

Here's what I like about it

• Lightweight and easy to walk in
• Cost performance
• If you're used to walking, it's versatile enough to handle everything from day trips to the Alps

Here's △

• The shoelaces are difficult to tighten and the shoes are hard to fit
• Not much traction on rocky terrain
• The fit of one-touch crampons is not very reliable

At first glance, The North Face shoes may seem like light trekking shoesVerbera Light Packer IIIThe heel has a welt and is compatible with semi-one-touch crampons, so these boots should be suitable for hiking from the snow season to summer mountain traverses. Even when I checked them out at the store, they seemed to be positioned somewhere between a light alpine boot and a trekking boot. Compared to other manufacturers' light alpine models (compatible with semi-one-touch crampons), the price is very reasonable, so if they're functionally sufficient, they're a bargain. Even so, I can't help but wonder if they're too cheap, but after walking around my house before my test hike, I felt they were very light and smooth to walk in. The deep toe spring (there's a curve in the toe area) provides good cushioning, making them as easy to walk in as sneakers

Compared to the other two pairs reviewed here, the sole is softer, making this model better suited for general mountain climbing than for ridge climbing. While I've often heard people say that North shoes are narrow, these shoes feature a unique last (wooden form) tailored to Japanese footwear, providing a wide interior and a comfortable fit. However, even when trying to tighten the entire shoe, especially the toe area, when descending, the shape and material of the eyelets require considerable force. While the cuff and tongue are also made of soft material, the laces are difficult to tighten, and the shallow cut makes the ankle hold feel weak and unsatisfying. Even on the actual mountain I visited for my test, I felt the lightness and walkability of these shoes from the very beginning. Even on rough trails, the highly cushioned sole absorbed shock, making them less tiring to walk long distances. While the sole has a climbing zone, I honestly think the toe and ankle hold are weak, and the soft sole makes them less suitable for rocky terrain. I'll discuss crampon attachment in a detailed review later. Personally, when I hear "semi-one-touch crampon compatible," I immediately think of using them in high mountains, but in the case of these shoes, they are an extension of trekking shoes, so it seems best to use crampons with laces rather than one-touch. They are excellent shoes for summer mountain climbing, pursuing lightness and ease of walking, so I recommend them to anyone who wants to cover everything from day trips to traverses with just one pair of hiking boots

Next page: Detailed review of each item

On the previous page, we introduced the rankings of the compared models, a list of their ratings and specifications, and our recommendations based on that. From here, we will explain the criteria used in the ratings and why we came to those ratings

Detailed review of each item

Sole hardness and grip

Backpacking and (light) alpine models require soles that are hard enough to withstand heavy loads and adapt to harsh terrain. With soft soles, the weight of your gear puts strain on the soles of your feet every time you walk or the terrain changes, resulting in noticeable fatigue. The grip of the sole is also important, ensuring a smooth transition from landing to pushing off

First, the hardness of the sole is judged simply by how much the sole bends when you put your weight on the hiking boots. The biggest difference between light alpine boots and trekking shoes is the shank (core material) in the sole. Generally, whether a sole is hard or soft refers to whether it has a shank or not, or the material of the shank, and not the quality of the sole itself

Of the three shoes reviewed, the TNF Verbella Light Packer III felt to have the softest sole, but it wasn't significantly softer than the other two. It felt fairly stiff, but it did bend when a certain amount of force was applied. The upper material also seemed to have a significant impact. The Verbella Light Packer III uses ballistic mesh, the Cevedarle Pro uses suede leather, and the Trango Tower uses honeycomb guard fabric. However, the upper felt the softest on the Cevedarle Pro, followed by the Verbella Light Packer III, and the stiffest on the Trango Tower. This is just my own speculation, but the Verbella Light Packer III has a soft shank, or a shank in only limited areas, which compensates for the stiffness of the upper material. The Cevedarle Pro has a stiffer shank, or a shank in a wider area, which compensates for the softness of the upper material. The Trango Tower has a stiffer shank, or perhaps a wider shank, and the stiffness of the upper material makes it even stronger. At this point, I feel the urge to slice all three pairs, but for various reasons, I will refrain from doing so (lol)

Next, let's talk about grip. All three pairs of shoes reviewed this time use Vibram soles, but none of them have the same sole pattern, and each manufacturer has designed them with weight, durability, and the balance with the midsole in mind

Again, I didn't feel a big difference, but the "Impact Brake System" installed in the Trango Tower gives me an outstanding sense of security, as if the entire sole of my foot, from toe to heel, is glued to the rocks. The block pattern, arranged in staggered steps, may seem distorted at first glance, but I always felt traction on climbs, and the braking power that allowed me to stop exactly where I wanted to place my feet on descents was impressive

This can also be said for the Cevedale Pro, but because the toes can move freely, subtle pressure is transmitted to the soles of the feet, which seems to lead to slight differences in grip. The Verbella Light Packer III has a deep toe spring (curvature in the toe area), which means the contact area between the sole and the ground (terrain) is narrow, and I felt that the grip was lacking

Stability (support)

Most hiking boots and trekking shoes are designed to cover the area from above the ankle down to the shin. This is done to improve waterproofing and durability and prevent ankle pain, but mid-cut and high-cut models often compromise ease of walking. Backpacking boots and light alpine boots are designed to protect the entire foot from external shocks and pressure in difficult terrain, rather than ease of walking, and to provide firm support (hold) to the ankle to stabilize a series of movements such as landing and pushing off. Recently, many models have been released that maintain support while improving walkability and comfort through the use of flexible materials in the uppers and tongues and unique manufacturer innovations, and future innovations are attracting attention

Well, to get straight to the point, out of the three pairs, the Verbella Light Packer III had the weakest (non-existent) support. As it's the only mid-cut model, it's only natural, but I also feel like it's a bit unfair to compare it to the two high-cut models, given the difference in categories between backpacking and light alpine models. Comparing the Chevedale Pro and Trango Tower, the Trango Tower offered the strongest overall support, staying firmly in place from the ankle to the sole and toes once you've tightened the laces, which seems like it would be effective when treading rocky terrain or other difficult terrain

On the other hand, the Cevedale Pro uses unique features such as "X Racing," "C4 Tongue," and "Flexfit Synchro" to maximize the fit of the entire foot, providing a good balance of support and comfort, so even when you tighten the laces, you won't feel like your feet are too tight

Comfort

The comfort required of hiking boots encompasses a wide range of factors, including weight and ease of walking, as well as waterproofing, internal moisture management, cushioned insoles, and a comfortable fit thanks to the upper and tongue. However, light alpine and backpacking models are designed for walking on rocky ridges and carrying heavy loads, and are therefore inherently stiff soles and deep cuts designed to support the ankles. At first glance, these may seem a little far from comfortable. However, looking at recent hiking boots, manufacturers have incorporated various innovations to improve comfort, such as the use of flexible materials in parts of the upper to hold the ankle while increasing freedom of movement. Examples of this are the Cevedale Pro's "FlexFit Synchro" and the Trango Tower's "3D Flex System." I felt that the Trango Tower was slightly less flexible (stiffer), but this is also a matter of personal preference

Also, in terms of comfort, the "I-Lock" and "X-Racing" features on the Cevedale Pro are noteworthy. "I-Lock" prevents the laces from loosening by locking them, and "X-Racing" prevents the tongue from slipping from the center of the foot. Naturally, these features prevent the laces from loosening and maintain a good fit, but they also eliminate the hassle of having to retighten your laces when climbing rocky terrain or other difficult terrain

In terms of weight and ease of walking, the Verbella Light Packer III is by far the best. The weight is as shown in the numbers, but I felt that it had the deepest toe spring of the three pairs, making for smoother walking and providing better cushioning in the midsole

durability

Here, I would like to examine rigidity and durability, but since the testing period was not long, I decided to judge based on the materials and construction. First, regarding the upper material, each of the three pairs is made of a different material: suede leather, leather + abrasion-resistant strong fabric, and ballistic nylon + suede leather. At first glance, leather (including suede) seems stronger, but ballistic nylon (DuPont: five times stronger than nylon) is an extremely strong fabric developed for military use, with excellent waterproofing, abrasion resistance, and heat resistance. It is also used in bulletproof vests. Furthermore, while the honeycomb-structured abrasion-resistant strong fabric used in the Trango Tower is also nylon, considering that it has been changed from the Trango S Evo's Cordura nylon (Invista: seven times stronger than nylon), it is likely a stronger material. The fabric is so sturdy that it makes me wonder if it might be more durable than leather, but testing this would require a long period of time, so I will leave it out of this review. In terms of construction, all three pairs are made with rand rubber and there doesn't seem to be much difference, but the Verbella Light Packer III is the only one that has rubber only on the front part from the arch to the toe, and the area around the heel is made of plastic, which is concerning. Also, as mentioned in the evaluation results, the Trango Tower has double rubber on the toe area, which seems to contribute to improving the durability of the toe area, which is the area that is most likely to be hit

Compatibility with crampons

Finally, I'll examine compatibility with crampons. Even in summer, snowfields remain on the flatlands at the base of the mountain, making crampons essential for safe progression. Incidentally, the crampons I own are Grivel Air Tech Automatic SP models, compatible with hiking boots with toe and heel welts. In the summer, I use them as semi-one-touch crampons by replacing the bails (metal fittings on the toe). All three pairs of boots reviewed here have heel welts and are advertised as semi-one-touch crampon-compatible models, so they can be attached, but compatibility is an issue. It's important that the sole and crampon shape fit snugly, especially at the toe and heel. Just to be clear, this test was performed while wearing the boots and putting my weight on them, with the bands tightened as tightly as possible. Also, please note that this test is based on compatibility with the crampons I currently own and is based on the three pairs reviewed; it is not intended to be a judgment on the quality of the boots themselves

Well, there were no issues with the heel fit on all three pairs, but there were some slight differences in the toe fit. In order of smallest difference, it was Trango Tower < Chevedale Pro < Verbella Light Packer III. As mentioned in the evaluation results, the Verbella Light Packer III has a deep toe spring, so gaps will form no matter what you do. It is secured with a band so it won't come off easily, but it's still a concern

The Trango Tower boots have the smallest gaps and are the best match, and the gaps in the arch area are also small, so I think they are close to being the best match for the crampons I own. In any case, there is no guarantee, but it is always better to have as few doubts and uncertainties as possible when it comes to equipment that you are entrusting your life to

summary

The item I reviewed this time that I felt best balanced was the Sportiva Trango Tower. It received high marks in four categories: sole stiffness and grip, ankle support, durability, and compatibility with crampons. The only low score was for comfort, but that's my own judgment based on the limited number of three pairs I reviewed; different people's impressions may differ. The stability on rocky terrain was excellent, and I recommend them to anyone planning to climb the Hotaka mountain range or Mount Tsurugi this summer. The Chevedare Pro was perhaps the most all-around shoe. Its high level of rigidity and flexibility made it suitable for any mountain climb. Although in a slightly different category, the Verbella Light Packer III received high marks for its weight and walkability. Each shoe reviewed has its own unique characteristics and strengths, and your choice will likely depend on what you're looking for in a shoe

Hiroaki Saito

I live in Saitama Prefecture. I was captivated by the Kurobe Gorge Shimono Corridor, and after turning 30, I got into mountain climbing, but I'm still developing my passion. Drawing on my natural curiosity and spirit of inquiry, I try to get into the mountains whenever I have time to make up for my lack of experience. I have a strong desire for material things, and I make impulse purchases without thinking about the consequences, which leads to ups and downs in my days. I'll share the appeal of gear through my trial and error

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