The summer mountain season has begun, and I'm sure many people are considering which mountain to climb this year.
Everyone has different plans, such as expeditions from low mountains near cities to Japan and abroad. During the snowy mountain season, the snow melts in the Northern Alps and Southern Alps, which are a little less accessible, and many people are planning to make their Alps debut this summer.
When it comes to the Alps, you need to prepare not only carefully, but also your clothing and equipment. Even though it's summer, snowy fields remain on the high-altitude mountains, so crampons are needed to walk safely, and there are many mountains that exceed the limits of forest, so there are many occasions where you will climb rocky areas.
You won't be able to climb with trekking shoes with soft soles, but considering the risk of injuries and other issues, you will need solid climbing shoes that are suitable for your needs. So this time we will review mountain hiking boots that are recommended for mountains with many rocky ridges, including the Northern and Southern Alps.
table of contents
table of contents
- About the items we compared and tested this time
- Test results and spec comparison table
- Impressions of each model
- Detailed reviews of each item (Page: 2)
- Summary (Page:2)
About the hiking boots compared this time
For safe walking along the rocky ridge, climbing boots with stiff soles and strong protection are suitable. Of course, you won't be able to climb even with trekking shoes with soft soles. In fact, when I first started climbing, I used sneakers and shoes that I couldn't call hiking boots. However, while it was light and easy to walk in, every time I climbed, I felt fatigue from my knees (especially my soles of my feet), and sprains and trauma continued. The shoes themselves wear out so much that they sometimes end up crushing one pair of shoes.
When you think about it that way, I think that the best mountaineering shoes are the hard soles and are waterproof and durable. If you suffer from foot pain or fatigue, you will not be able to enjoy climbing the mountain, and you will end up training or penance.
When it comes to mountaineering boots with a hard sole and robust and durable, I think they will become more closely involved in categories such as backpacking models, light alpine models, and mountaineering. However, although the appearance and shape are similar, each manufacturer has distinctive materials, technology, and functions, and range from models specialized for rock ridges to models with a certain degree of versatility. In particular, in Japan, most mountains are walking through forest belts from the trailhead and reaching rocky areas, so a model with excellent rigidity and robustness that is uniformly specialized for rock ridges is not the best. Walking and comfort are also important factors. So, to start this review, we have compiled the selection criteria as follows:
- It must be a model aimed at backpacking and light alpine
- There must be a climbing zone on the sole
- Has a edge on the heel and can be worn with semi-one-touch crampons
With the clear selection criteria, we will move on to selecting specific manufacturers and models, but since most of the major mountaineering boot manufacturers, such as Scarpa, Sportiva, Zambaran, and Garmont, are in Europe and Italy, it is a bit less interesting to compare them alone with Italian manufacturers. So they settled on one new pair of shoes in each country, and settled on three pairs: Sportiva (Italy), Rover (Germany), and the North Face (USA). Normally, we would have wanted to add manufacturers such as Mammut (Switzerland) and Silio (Japan), but we are concerned that the number of products will become thinner as the reviews increase, so we have limited it to three pairs this time.
Test environment
The test period is approximately two months from May to the end of June 2018. The test was conducted mainly in the mountains of Okuchichibu, the Central Alps and the Southern Alps. The walking distance for each test was about 8-15km, and we changed different models on the climb and descent, and compared them on the left and right sides. The tests on the rocky ridge were conducted at Mt. Okuchichibu (Mt. Inokuyama and Mt. Kinmine) as all three pairs were conducted under the same conditions. In addition, detailed test conditions are added in a detailed review of each item.
Five indicators are set as follows for evaluation items. The evaluation figures for the test results are based on my own judgment after the test and are not objective in any way.
- Hardness and grip of the sole: essential for hard mountain hiking, such as heavy luggage or walking on rocky ridges.
- Support: Prevents ankle twisting and displacement inside the shoe
- Comfort, weight... Comfortable to wear and whether you can continue walking for a long time
- Durability: Protects your feet from external pressure such as friction and tearing
- Compatibility with crampons: Easily fit and difficult to remove when passing through snowy fields.
Test results and spec comparison table
| comprehensive evaluation | ★★★★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★☆ |
|---|---|---|---|
| item |  |
 |
 |
| Reference price | 48,384 yen | 47,520 yen | 29,160 yen |
| grip | ★★★★★ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★☆☆ |
| Stability | ★★★★☆ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★☆☆ |
| Comfort | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★★★ |
| Robustness | ★★★★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★☆ |
| weight | ★★★☆☆ | ★★☆☆☆ | ★★★★☆ |
| Eisen compatibility | ★★★★☆ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★☆☆ |
| Specs | |||
| item | LA SPORTIVA TRANGO TOWER GTX® | LOWA CEVEDALE PRO GT | THE NORTH FACE Verbera Lightpacker III GORE-TEX |
| Actual weight (one foot g) | 739 (UK9) | 841 (UK8.5) | 643(UK8.5) |
| Upper material | High strength waterproof nylon 6.6 honeycomb guard flex |
Suede leather | Ballistic Mesh Suede Upper |
| Outsole |
Vibram CUBE Sole |
Vibram Dolent Guida Pro | Vibram Mula sole |
| waterproof | GORE-TEX® | GORE-TEX® | GORE-TEX® |
Impressions of each model
LA SPORTIVA TRANGO TOWER GTX®
Overall strength is high. Amazing performances, especially on rocky areas.
This is ◎
- Traction and braking performance that are effective in rocky areas
- Robustness that allows you to walk around rocky areas
- Balance of ankle support and mobility
- One-touch crampons fit easily
This is △
- I'm glad that the cushioning was more comfortable with the sole and insole.
- price
Of course, it not only has its appearance, but also has strong and functionality, and the toe, which is the most vulnerable, is covered in double rubber, making it seem as if toe should be climbing a rocky area (?). the Chevedare Pro GT we compared this time , the sole feels a little thinner, and perhaps because of this, the feeling of the soles of the feet can be conveyed more directly. However, even though the sole is thin, the sole with a shank (core material) is hard to prevent twisting and does not bending with a slight amount of force. We actually tested it on a rocky mountain, and when we were able to grasp the bumps and bumps of the rocks, you could feel the traction that sucks into the rocks when climbing.
On the other hand, I don't notice any outstanding shock absorption performance, and as I walk for a long time, I start to feel fatigued and exhausted all over the soles of my feet. However, this may be because I got carried away for the test, actively chose unstable scaffolding, and continued walking on the risqué scaffolding for a long time (lol).
Overall, I tried looking somewhere to see if there were any weak points, but I couldn't find them. If I had to point out the question, would it be an insole? I think the original cushioning of shoes should be judged overall, not just the insole alone, but the midsole and outsole, but the construction feels a bit cheap. I felt that if something a little thicker would have a higher impact absorption. Well, if I had to say so... so some people may not mind at all.
LOWA CEVEDALE PRO GT
Not only is it robust, but it also has high comfort and walking performance!
This is ◎
- Tighten the shoelaces tightly and do not interfere with ankle movement
- The exquisite toe space allows you to move freely without pressure on your toes
- A good balance between walking, comfort and robustness, and excellent response
This is △
- It's just heavy
- price
The first thing I felt was that the space in the toes was wide. The feet are fixed from the left and right, but they have an exquisite fit that is neither too tight nor too loose. Wearing mountaineering socks adds cushioning, and I don't think there are many people who get injured by wearing these shoes. The thick ankle cuffs and tongues seem to contribute to walking and comfort, which does not interfere with ankle movement even when the laces are tightened tightly.
The only thing I found to be a problem was the weight. Since they are leather shoes, they are naturally heavy, but the weight of each shoe is about 841g (8.5 UK size) is comparable to mountaineering boots in the harsh winter, which is a bit off the mark from a modern day feeling (lol). And, I would also like to add one more thing: there aren't many mountaineering equipment stores that display and sell them. That's a shame because they are good shoes.
THE NORTHFACE Verbera Lightpacker III GORE-TEX
Among the Light Alpine, this is a versatile model that is particularly easy to walk in, from day trips to the Alps.
This is ◎
- Lightweight and easy to walk in
- Cost Performance
- If you're used to it, it's versatile enough to accommodate day trips to the Alps
This is △
- The shoelaces are difficult to tighten and fit on your feet
- The traction on rocky areas is not that high
- One-touch emblem fit is not very reliable
Next page: Go to detailed reviews of each item
On the previous page, we introduced a ranking of the models we compared, a list of ratings and specs, and recommendations based on them. From here, we will explain what criteria were used to evaluate the evaluation and why it was evaluated in that way.
Detailed reviews of each item
Sole hardness and grip
The sole installed in the backpacking (light) Alpine model requires hardness to withstand heavy loads and hardness that is suitable for hard terrain. With the soft sole, every time you walk with the weight of your equipment or change in the terrain, the sole is put on the sole, causing a significant accumulation of fatigue. The grip of the sole is also important, allowing for a smooth series of actions from landing to kicking off.
First, the hardness of the sole is simply and simply determined by how hard the sole is bent when you put your weight on the mountaineering boots. The big difference between light alpine boots and trekking shoes is the difference in the shank (core material) found in the sole. Generally speaking, a hard or soft sole means whether it has a shank or not, or the material of the shank, and is not a superior or inferiority in the sole itself.
Of the three shoes I reviewed this time, the one that felt the softest sole was the TNF Ververalite Packer III, but it is not as soft as the other two, but rather it is quite hard, and it feels like it will start to bend when a certain amount of force is applied. It also seems that the upper material has a significant impact. The materials are different for the Verbera Light Packer III: ballistic mesh, the Chevedale Pro is suede leather, and the Trango Tower and honeycomb guard fabric, but in reality, the Chevedale Pro feels the softest upper, followed by the Verbera Light Packer III, and the Trango Tower feels the stiffest. From here on, it's just my own guess, but the Verbera Light Packer III has a soft shank or only a limited number of parts, and the cover is made of the hardness of the upper material. The Chevedare Pro has a hard shank or a wide area to cover the softness of the upper material. The Trango Tower has a hard shank or a wide area, and the hardness of the upper material makes it even stronger. At this point, I feel like I want to cut all three of my legs apart, but due to various circumstances, I will refrain from doing so (lol).
Next, about the grips. The three pairs we reviewed this time use a Vibram sole in common, but none of them have the same sole pattern, and each manufacturer has designed it in mind for weight, durability, and balance with the midsole.
Sole pattern comparison. From left: Rover, Sportiva, and the North Face.
This is true for Chevedare Pros, as the toes can be moved freely, so the subtle amount of force can be transmitted to the soles of the feet, which seems to lead to a slight difference in grip. The Velvera Light Packer III has a deep toe spring (warping at the toe area), so the contact surface between the sole and the ground (terrain) is narrow, making it a little less gripping experience.
Stability (support)
Many mountaineering boots and trekking shoes are made to cover the top of the ankle and around the bottom of the shin. This is how it is made to improve waterproofness, durability, and avoid ankle injuries, but this can significantly impair the ease of walking (walking ability) of middle-cut and high-cut models. Backpacking boots and Light Alpine boots are characterized by being designed to protect your entire foot from external impacts and pressure in difficult areas rather than easy to walk in, and to provide firm support (holding) your ankles to stabilize the series of movements such as landing and kicking off. Recently, many models have been sold that have improved walking and comfort while maintaining support through the use of flexible uppers and tongues, and the manufacturer's unique ingenuity, and future innovations are becoming increasingly popular.
From left: North Face, Sportiva and Rover. Stability changes depending on the fit from the heel to the ankle and the holding force.
Now, let me start by saying that of the three pairs, the one with the weakest support (not that) was Verbera Light Packer III. As it is the only middle-cut model, it is only natural that there are differences in categories, the backpacking model and the Light Alpine model, and I think it was quite difficult to compare it with two high-cut models. So, when comparing two pairs, the Chevedare Pro and the Trango Tower, the strong support for the whole thing is the Trango Tower, which once you tighten your laces, it won't slip from the ankles to the soles of your feet to the toes, and it seems to be effective in situations where you are in difficult places such as rocks.
On the other hand, the Chevedale Pro's unique features such as X Racing, C4 Tang (Tang) and Flex Fit Synchro maximize the overall fit of the foot, providing a balanced balance of support and comfort, and even if you narrow the laces down tightly, you won't feel like your feet are too stiff.
Comfort
The comfort required of mountaineering shoes ranges from weight and ease of walking, as well as waterproofness, stuffiness inside the shoe, cushioning in the insoles, and fit through the upper and tongue. However, when it comes to light alpine and backpacking models, the assumption is that you will be walking along the rocky ridge and carrying heavy loads on your back is that they have a stiff sole, and the cut is also deeply designed to support the ankle area, so you may think that it is a little far from comfort at first glance. However, looking at recent mountaineering shoes, each manufacturer has adopted various ways to improve comfort, and a typical example is that by using flexible material for part of the upper, it also provides a function that increases freedom while holding the ankle while also holding the ankle. These include Chebedare Pro's "Flexfit Synchro" and Trango Tower's "3D Flex System." I got the impression that Trango Towers are a little less flexible (hard) but this is also a matter of personal preference.
Also, in terms of comfort, the "I-Lock" and "X-Racing" featured in the Chevedale Pro are also worth paying attention to. "I-Lock" prevents the shoelaces from loosening by locking the shoelaces, and "X-Racing" prevents the tongue from slipping from the center of the foot, which is naturally possible to prevent the shoelaces from loosening and maintain a fit, but it also frees you from the hassle of retightening the shoelaces in difficult places such as rocks.
The Verbera Light Packer III is by far the best in terms of weight and ease of walking. The weight is as shown by the numbers, but I felt that the toe springs are the deepest of the three pairs, making it easier to walk in, and the midsole has a high cushioning effect.
Durability
Here we would like to verify the rigidity and robustness, but as the test period is not long, we decided to make a decision based on the materials and construction. First of all, the upper material is made up of different materials: suede leather, leather + strong abrasion resistant fabric, ballistic nylon + suede leather. At first glance, leather (including suede) may seem stronger, but ballistic nylon (Dupont: five times stronger than nylon) is a very strong fabric developed for military use, with excellent waterproof, wear resistance, and heat resistance, and is also used in bulletproof vests. Also, although the honeycomb structure with a wear-resistant strong fabric used in trango towers is nylon, it is changed from the Cordura nylon of Trango S Evo (Invista: 7 times stronger than nylon), it can be seen that it is a material with even greater strength. The fabric is so sturdy that it may be more durable than leather, but it takes a long time to verify it, so I will not leave this review for this review. Looking at the construction, all three pairs are covered in land rubber, so there doesn't seem to be much difference, but it is a concern that the Velvera Light Packer III is covered in rubber only on the front part from the arch to the toes, and plastic material is used around the heel. As mentioned in the evaluation results, the Trango Tower is covered with double rubber on the toe, which seems to contribute to improving the durability of the toe part that is most likely to hit.
Compatibility with Eisen
Finally, we will examine how it matches with the empress. Even in summer, snowy fields may still remain on high mountains in the flatlands at the foot of the mountains, so crampons are essential to wear them to proceed safely. By the way, the eminence I own is a Gribel Airtech Omatic SP model that is compatible with mountaineering boots with edges on the toes and heels, but in the summer, I use it as a semi-one-touch design by replacing the bail (hard fittings on the toes). All three of the shoes we will be reviewing this time have edges on the heels and are said to be models that are compatible with semi-one-touch crampons, so it is possible to wear them, but the problem is compatibility. The shape of the sole and crampons fit without any gaps, and it is important to ensure that the toes and heels are fit in particular. Just to be sure, in this verification, we have actually put our boots on and put our weight on, and tightened the band as tightly as possible. Also, it goes well with the crampons I currently own, and is rated between the three pairs I have reviewed, so I would like to inform you that it is not a judgement of whether the boots themselves are good or bad.
Well, all three pairs of heel fit were fine, but there was a slight difference in the toe fit. If we list the results in order of small differences, we get the results: Trango Tower <Cevedale Pro <Ververalite Packer III. As mentioned in the evaluation results for Velvera Light Packer III, the toe springs are deep, so no matter how you try, there will be gaps. It is secured with a band so it won't come off easily, but it still leaves me with concern.
Verbera Light Packer III x Gribel Airtech Omatic SP
The Trango Tower has a small gap and is the best match for the arch, and the gap in the arch of the arch is small, making it the perfect boot for the crampons I own. In any case, it is not absolute, but it is best to have fewer doubts and anxiety about the tools that entrust your life to you.
Sportiva Trango Tower x Gribel Airtech Omatic SP
Rover Chevedale Pro GT x Gribel Airtech Omatic SP
summary
Of the items I reviewed this time, I found the most balanced one to be Sportiva's Trango Tower. He scored high scores in four categories: stiffness and grip of the sole, ankle support, durability, and compatibility with crampons. The only thing I got was that the score was low, but I only judged that even though there was only three pairs, and I think that if someone else wears it, the way they feel differently. The stability on rocky areas is incredible, and is recommended for those considering climbing the Hodaka mountain range or Mt. Tsurumi this summer. I think Chevedare Pro was the one who felt the most all-rounder. I got the impression that the stiffness and softness are combined at a high standard, and that they do not matter what mountain you climb. Although the category was slightly different, Verbera Light Packer III received high praise for its weight and walking ability. Each shoe we review has its own characteristics and characteristics that stand out from others, and the way you choose one will probably change depending on what you are looking for in the shoe.
Saito Hiroaki
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