Review: Arc'teryx ALPHA FL 30

Overview

Back in the day, mountaineering backpacks were categorized simply. They were either "small" or "large," and as long as we had the right capacity, we only had to consider which brand to buy. But now, that's no longer the case. Choosing the right backpack isn't just about capacity; it's also about determining your goals—the type of mountain you're climbing and the style you want to use. When faced with the sheer array of backpacks, each with a slightly different color and shape, lining the walls of a mountaineering equipment store, it can be overwhelming to find the perfect one. I have good news for those of you out there. The Arc'teryx ALPHA FL 30, which I'll review below, is a truly exceptional and unique backpack for specific purposes. But that doesn't mean it's a pack without its quirks. I would strongly discourage anyone starting out on mountaineering from buying this backpack. However, if you have even a little bit of mountaineering experience, or if you're starting to get picky about your mountain gear, I would wholeheartedly recommend giving this backpack a try. It's that amazing. Its extreme dedication, its simplicity and focus on the concept, and the resulting simple, beautiful design are the result of stripping it down. I'd like to talk in detail about the appeal of this backpack and the things to be aware of

Detailed Review

Let's start with the basics. The Arc'teryx ALPHA FL 30 is a backpack designed specifically for climbing and high-altitude mountaineering, not for general hiking. So what are the requirements for a climbing backpack? First, it needs to be lightweight enough to allow for unrestricted movement in challenging conditions; durable enough to withstand tight rock formations and even when hauling the backpack up; comfortable, easy to move around, and easy to carry, so you won't tire out on the approach and your center of gravity stays steady even during various movements during the attack; and finally, functionality, such as the ability to pack all your technical gear efficiently. On the other hand, when choosing a backpack for regular hiking, you also need to consider versatility—how well it can accommodate a variety of mountain climbing styles (duration, capacity, and climbing technique); adjustability—to ensure a perfect fit for long periods of wear; and ease of use—for beginners and experts alike. In this review, I will evaluate it on all of these criteria and then check how it performs both as a climbing/attack backpack and when used for other purposes

weight

When you think about situations where you would use a small, lightweight backpack, it would be for a day trip or at most an overnight stay. Naturally, the amount of luggage you carry is small, so it's more difficult to keep the contents of your luggage light than on a long mountain trip. For this reason, the fact that the backpack itself is light is actually a huge advantage

Now, speaking of the weight of this backpack, imagine what it weighs: 575g. That's roughly the weight of the recently increased-size plastic bottles of tea. Before carrying this backpack, I'd never used a backpack weighing less than 1kg, no matter how small, so I honestly didn't expect the weight to have such an impact. Carrying a mountaineering backpack on your waist, not your shoulders, is the key to long hikes without getting tired. Believing this without a doubt, when I first saw this backpack, I couldn't help but worry about the flimsy waist strap. However, in reality, I've hiked the mountains with this backpack many times, and I've never once experienced shoulder fatigue (in fact, when I carried it on my waist, I even hurt my hips). Overall, I have no complaints about the weight of the backpack

Durability

There are two main factors that determine the durability of a backpack. The first is the fabric of the backpack. The fabric used for the main compartment of the Arc'teryx ALPHA FL 30 is N400r-AC2 nylon 6 ripstop, Arc'teryx's proprietary lightweight, durable, and waterproof fabric. The high-denier, sturdy fabric and taped seams make it nearly completely waterproof, yet surprisingly lightweight. It also has sufficient abrasion resistance for use in climbing. To be honest, I can't find any weak points

Another point is the durability of the stitching and external attachments of the backpack. This backpack has very few external tapes, belts, and attachments to begin with. Therefore, the possibility of it breaking is less than other backpacks. Of course, there are no areas of concern about the few stitching and external attachments that remain

Comfort

Unlike larger backpacks designed for long-term mountaineering, compact, lightweight backpacks generally lack back padding, frames, cushioning, padding, and adjustment mechanisms. This backpack, too, features only a flat padded back, shoulder straps that are only adjustable at the waist, and a tape-type waist belt—very limited in functionality. It lacks a mesh back structure or the recently popular back-mounted ventilation design with gaps, making it seem at first glance like you have to sacrifice comfort when carrying it compared to today's typical mountaineering backpacks. Some people may feel that way. However, as far as I can tell from this review, given its lightness, it's more than enough. The back padding is also firmer than I expected, and the shoulder straps are light enough with just this level of cushioning, making a waist belt nearly unnecessary

Versatility

Some backpacks allow you to remove various parts depending on your climbing style, but that's not the case with this backpack. It's stripped down to the bare minimum, so you can't add or remove anything. If this backpack was more customizable and versatile, I'd have no complaints

Functionality

The Arc'teryx ALPHA FL 30 is a backpack specifically designed for rock and snow climbing, stripped down to the bare essentials, and this distinction is evident in many areas. First of all, it lacks a canopy. The top is a waterproof roll-top top (now the norm for waterproof stuff sacks), said to have been invented by Arc'teryx, and this top is further compressed and secured with a buckle from above (you can also attach ropes and crampons to these buckles). In addition to the main compartment, the only storage space is a zippered pocket with a key clip. Furthermore, the only external attachment is a loop on the front for attaching an ice axe or similar. Whether this is sufficient or not depends on the purpose of the backpack, but it appears to have the bare minimum of functionality needed for regular mountain hiking

Ease of use

While different users have different expectations for ease of use, I doubt anyone would say this backpack is easier to use than other backpacks. It's so stripped away any ease of use that even beginners would find it easy to use. For example, the storage compartment is only accessible at the top, making it incredibly difficult to access items packed at the bottom. Because it's a completely waterproof backpack, there's no hole for a hydration tube (you have to give up on waterproofing and access it through the roll-top opening). There are also virtually no small pockets, meaning there's no place to store items you need quick access to, like water bottles, food, or maps. You have to find a way to store them yourself. This is the main reason I don't recommend this backpack for beginners; it's likely only useful for people who are accustomed to packing frequently and who have established a certain style by making use of pouches and pockets other than this backpack

Adjustment power

It's safe to assume that there is almost no size adjustment function like in large backpacks for long-term mountain trips

ALPHA FL 30

Arc'teryx

Score sheet

Specification table

   

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