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Review: MILLET Breather Toy Hoodie It can be said to be the decisive hit for autumn and winter wear. Active insulation jacket with ultra-water-repellent function

written by Outdoor Gearzine Editorial Department

In recent years, a number of well-known manufacturers have released thermal jackets that can be worn while on the move, such as Patagonia's Nano Air, The North Face's Ventrix, and Arc'teryx's Atom, and these have now become firmly established as a genre known as active insulation

Active Insulation is basically a warm and cold-weather garment filled with padding, but at the same time, it is breathable and highly stretchable, making it a jacket that can be worn comfortably and retains heat even during intense sweating activities such as trail running, ice climbing, and backcountry skiing in the fall and winter. However, since it was originally positioned as a mid-layer, it was weak against rain and had to be protected from getting wet with a hard shell or similar

The MILLET Breather Toy Hoodie reviewed this time is a groundbreaking model that overturns conventional wisdom about active insulation and is effective enough to be used as an outer layer.

MILLET Breather Toy Hoodie: General Features

The BREATHER Toy Hoodie is a next-generation active insulation jacket that combines the warmth of a cold-weather jacket with stretch for ease of movement, breathability to allow sweat to escape, windproofness to block wind, and water-repellent properties to repel rain, making it an exceptionally versatile piece of clothing for fall and winter activities. The outer fabric is BREATHER 3DeFX+® , a high-performance insulation material that combines warmth, breathability, and stretch . This versatile insulation jacket can be used as an outer layer during normal times and is extremely useful for high-intensity activities in cold weather.

Recommended points

  • Outstanding water-repellent performance and its durability
  • Stress-free mobility
  • Temperature and humidity regulation for continuous wear

Points that interest me

  • Windproofing is a little lacking
  • Design (color variations)

Main Specifications and ratings

itemSpecifications and ratings
Official weight370g
Actual measured weight382g (EU size M)
material
  • BREATHER ST SDWR nylon 100%
  • 3DeFX+® 60・40
pocket
  • Left chest zip pocket
  • Left and right zip pockets (hand warmer style)
Comfort★★★★☆
Thermal insulation★★★★☆ (★★★☆☆ considering windproofness)
It's not stuffy★★★★★
Mobility★★★★★
Functionality★★★☆☆
comprehensive evaluation★★★★☆

Item appearance

Detailed review

Breathable and water-repellent jacket

The Breather Jacket's catchphrase is that it is a breathable, water-repellent jacket , and this has been made possible by Millet's latest technology.

According to the manufacturer, this jacket achieves strong and long-lasting water-repellent properties without covering the surface of the fabric, meaning it doesn't impair breathability. The exact mechanism is a trade secret, but BREATHER is a fabric that is woven from threads that are treated with a water-repellent coating, not just the surface.

The photo below shows the fabric after a large amount of water has been spilled on it. Even just a quick test shows that the fabric has excellent water-repellent properties, likely due to the strength of each individual thread. It's also durable and long-lasting, even after washing

The water-repellent properties are strong and long-lasting. The zipper is not waterproof, so water may leak if the bag is laid flat, but this is not a problem with normal use

Fit and comfort of the hood, sleeves, and hem

The fit is slim, but even though I'm a little muscular, it doesn't feel particularly tight and has a clean fit. The fabric on the inside of the arms, armpits, and sides of the torso is a different color, but it seems to be just a design feature and not a difference in the material itself

It is filled with padding so it is a bit bulky, but it still gives a slim impression

This is because the fabric is stretchy, but the three-dimensional cut, especially around the shoulders, allows for a snug fit without relying on the fabric's stretch

The three-dimensional cut around the shoulders provides a comfortable fit and good mobility

The inside is made entirely of mesh fabric, which does not impair breathability and is soft and comfortable against the skin

The cuffs and hem are elastic shirred to prevent cold air from getting in. The sleeves are neither too long nor too short, just the right length

The cuffs have elastic shirring to prevent cold air from getting in. The left cuff has the 3DeFx+® logo

The hood is made with elastic shirring and does not have a drawcord or other adjustment function. However, it is high around the neck, and when zipped up, it acts as a balaclava that covers your mouth. Because the entire hood is elastic and the fabric itself is stretchy, it is easy to put on and take off even when zipped up all the way

The collar is high and can cover the mouth, making it useful as a balaclava

The front zipper opens from both the top and bottom, allowing you to quickly release heat trapped inside your body

The front zipper can be opened from the top and bottom, allowing for quick adjustment if your body gets too hot

There are three pockets in total: one chest pocket and two left and right pockets. The zipper on the chest pocket has a small reflective strip to increase visibility at night

To increase visibility at night, reflective strips are attached to the top of the pocket zippers, helping you to find your pockets and to be seen by others

The pockets on the waist are lined with brushed material to act as hand warmers. The brushed material is placed on the outside to protect it from the wind

The inside of both hip pockets are made of brushed material and can be used as hand warmers

Impressions from actually using it

The fabric stretches, and so does the padding. It's four-way stretchable, so mobility is outstanding, and for an active insulation, it's exceptionally high in mobility, with almost no snagging or stress on your movements. You won't even notice it if you stretch or do other warm-up exercises while wearing this jacket. That's how stretchy and mobile it is. You'll have to take your clothes off less due to changes in weather, so you can focus on your activities without stress

Thanks to its high stretchability, it offers excellent mobility. No stress whatsoever during any movement!

The padding is made of TORAY's 3DeFX+R, which is not only insulating but also has stretchability due to its ultra-fine coiled threads, and its loose fibers ensure breathability

The TORAY 3DeFX+® padding is not, of course, the kind that provides exceptional insulation, keeping you toasty warm even when standing still in low temperatures. Taking these characteristics into consideration, the amount of padding is neither too thick nor too thin. It provides ample warmth when it's just a little chilly, and enough warmth to keep you moving when shivering. It's also breathable, so you won't get drenched in sweat. The front zipper can be opened from the bottom, so opening it from the bottom provides good ventilation, for example, when picking up the pace. Even when standing still, the moderate insulation will keep you warm. However, since it's windproof while still maintaining breathability, you'll gradually cool down if you're not moving for long periods of time in the wind, so be careful. In any case, if you wear a warm base layer underneath, this gear should be sufficient in winter, unless you're traveling to extremely cold or high-altitude mountain areas

Its water-repellent properties are extremely high, making it one of the best of any water-repellent jackets I've ever worn. It's no surprise that it repels water, but that ability lasts for a long time! It's so strong that at first, you might wonder if it's even waterproof. Of course, it will gradually soak through if the rain is strong, but for moderate rain, there's no need to worry. Previous active insulations were primarily designed as mid-layers, and even though they had some water-repellent properties, they assumed you'd wear a rain jacket over them in bad weather. However, the Breather Toy Hoody has enough performance to overturn that assumption.

The hood is also padded, so when you put it on completely, it will keep your entire head warm just like the main body. The hood is a little roomy, so it will cover your head even if you wear a cap with a brim upside down. The helmet is a type that you put on from above. Although it is roomy, it has elastic shirring so it fits well without the need for adjustments such as drawcords. It won't flap around in the wind

Even if you wear the cap with the brim facing backwards, the hood will still fit snugly thanks to its stretchy construction

The color reviewed this time is orange. It's certainly noticeable and safe for use in the mountains, but the design could use a more refined hue (although the other colors, black and honey mustard, seem usable for non-professional use as well...). Also, when you open the zipper, the Millet logo is so prominent on the right side that some people will like it and others won't. Another thing is that if the cuffs had thumbholes, it would be more complete as active winter wear, I think. This is also likely to be a matter of personal preference.

Along the front zipper is a flurry of Millet marks...

Summary: Not just warmth! Three-fold insulation with one more bonus

Among the active insulations I've reviewed so far, there have been some very good ones, the Breather Toy Hoody can certainly be described as just a very good jacket if used as a mid-layer.

However, the great thing about this jacket is its versatility, combining all the functionality that previously required multiple layers. It provides reliable warmth and breathability for intense activities, with stretch that doesn't restrict movement. It can also handle changing weather conditions without needing a windshell or rainshell. These features make it a reliable multi-functional insulation that adds a new dimension not found in previous active insulations. Of course, while it has a wide range of functionality, it doesn't fulfill all roles perfectly. Depending on the route, you'll need to prepare the appropriate equipment, but for routes of a certain difficulty and length, it's undoubtedly useful from autumn through winter and spring!

The Breather series includes a lineup of jackets with different warmth and style, such as the unpadded Windshell Breather Light Jacket and the Breather Warm Jacket with more than twice the amount of padding . By choosing a jacket that suits your purpose and activity, you can relieve the stress of choosing clothes this winter and enjoy it even more comfortably.

For more information about the "MILLET Typhon 50000 Warm Stretch Jacket" introduced this time, please visit MILLET's official website.