Rab Generator Alpine Jacket Review: "Top-edge insulation materials" x "The know-how and technology of experts" = Lightweight, compact, warm, and invincible insulation jacket that is resistant to wet

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A masterpiece of winter winter winter winter jacket developed with the aim of "best performance" under the worst conditions

In my previous review introduced cutting-edge down jackets , but this time I'm talking about "strong" winter clothing to tackle tougher and harsher winter mountains.

Down jackets are certainly the best option given their lightness and insulation alone. However, in order to say that, it is necessary to assume certain conditions, and we must not forget that down jackets can only be used as the best winter clothing in "dry (not wet) situations." It is true that several manufacturers have recently released down jackets that are water-repellent and resistant to wetting, as well as down jackets that use waterproof and breathable material as the outer fabric. However, these do not solve the fundamental problem of "wet or wet down not warm (loss of insulation)".

In snowy mountains, clothes are often wet, and are inevitably wet. For example, you may behave in snowy mountains with high temperatures and humidity, in wet snow or rain, or involving heavy sweating. In short, all of these scenes are scenes where you have to endure harsh environments. If possible, when you want to avoid such a dent, the down jacket you're buying tends to lose its resilience, and you won't be able to use it with confidence. No, it's even hard to use.

Even in such cases, a synthetic fiber-filled cold protection jacket will function steadily as a cold protection jacket. Although synthetic fiber padding is light and compact, it is not suitable for down, but it also has the property of being very compatible with harsh outdoor activities, as it is "warm, durable, and can be washed without worry." Furthermore, in recent years, this weakness of "lightness and compactness" has been significantly eliminated through cutting-edge technology, which is a tailwind.

Among these synthetic insulation jackets, the "Belay Jacket" was made to be worn mainly during belaying (ensure) during alpine climbing, with a focus on heat retention and durability, and the popular model that has been released since last season is the " Rab Generator Alpine Jacket " that we will introduce this time. To put it in a way, just as a first-class chef cooks the finest ingredients, we will quickly review what is so great about the high-end synthetic insulation jacket, which can be said to have been created by the Master of Insulation, which has been cutting-edge insulation materials.

Key Features of Rab Generator Alpine Jacket

The Rab Generator Alpine Jacket is a tough and reliable synthetic insulation hoodie designed for activities in low temperature and harsh environments, including winter climbing. By strategically mapping the ultra-lightweight, highly insulated aerogel-injected "Primaloft® Gold Insulation with Cross Core™" padding material into two types of weights, it achieves the highest level of warmth, lightness and ease of storage among the belay jackets available today. The outer material uses the Pertex® Quantum Pro Diamond Fuse, and the smooth surface made of diamond-shaped filaments that are resistant to snags, providing high abrasion resistance and weather resistance despite being lightweight. The regular fit that can be worn over the shell and the skillful pattern that uses ergonomically calculated three-dimensional cutting prevents stiffness and sagging even in large movements, freeing you from the stress of your actions. It has practical features specializing in winter mountain activities, such as an adjustable helmet-compatible hood with a smooth zipper and a stiff brim even when wearing gloves, wide-mouthed sleeves with Velcro adjustment, and a large hand pocket and inner pocket that can store gloves.

Favorite points

• Two types of "Primaloft® Gold Insulation with Cross Core™" are used to combine warmth and lightweight compactness
• Strength to wet and ease of care that is unique to synthetic fiber insulation
• "Pertex® Quantum Pro DIAMOND FUSE" is a lightweight outer fabric that is windproof, durable and water-repellent.
• Excellent three-dimensional cutting that combines the ease of movement, comfort and good silhouette that only Rab can do
• Highly practical, with every detail optimized for winter mountain activities, including hood, pockets, zippers, cuffs, hems, cord locks

Interesting points

• (If I had to say,) It does not aim for extremely lightweight and compact size, or high ventilation and breathability, so it is not suitable for high-tempo fast and light activities.
• The 2023 model has no longer in the stuff sack.

Main Specifications and ratings

Detailed review

The manufacturer says the Generator Alpine Jacket is the warmest, lightest, and most functional synthetic insulation belay jacket in Rab history, designed to provide the best performance in harsh winters on slopes (rocks) in Scotland, which is said to be the "worst in the world."

are explained by the person insider in All About Rab Part 1 on our YouTube channel,

Unlike parts of North America and in areas of North America and in extremely dry winters such as mountain climbing at high places, the winters in Scotland are characterized by being very humid, and the bad weather here is not only cold, but also sleet and rain, and the trails and rocks are always wet, making your clothes soaked (it's very similar to the scenery of mountains in Japan from winter to spring). In such situations, synthetic fiber padding is better suited to keeping your jacket warm than down.

This cold-weather jacket is said to be the most effective jacket in such low temperatures and harsh weather. Of course, there is only a reason to say that, so from here on I will unravel the explanation and explain what it actually was.

By the way, the basic premise is that this jacket is a "belay jacket" and is designed to prevent the belayer from getting cold when securing climbers (which are mainly stopped) during multi-pitch climbing. Conversely, we do not assume active situations where people are sweating, but in that sense it may not be very suitable for wearing while hiking or other activities. Of course, it's not that you won't be able to wear it while you're on the move, but if you're looking for a winter jacket that's primarily intended for breathability and stuffiness while traveling, you need to understand that other options, such as fleece or active insulation, are more likely to be better suited.

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Insulation and weight: Not heavy, not bulky, soft and extremely warm, something you wouldn't expect with previous synthetic fiber padding!

At first glance, you may think that this jacket doesn't look much different from other typical models. But the contents are completely different. What separates Generator Alpine Jacket

"Primaloft® Gold Insulation with Cross Core™" is an insulation material built into the ultra-low density material "aerogel" made from 95% air, originally designed by NASA to insulate space shuttles. The rare "almost air" characteristic of this aerogel has achieved an unprecedented lightness and insulation properties. This alone is definitely "light and warm," but Generator Alpine Jacket uses two different types of padding material, with a thick "133gsm" weight on the body and a medium-thick "80gsm" weight on the hood, making it more lightweight. As a result, although it is not disclosed in terms of "clo value (claw value; a standard for measuring the heat retention of clothing), it is said to have performed well compared to other competitors' competitors.

When you actually wear it, the loftiness (fluffy feel) the moment you put it on first, when you consider it from the standard of synthetic fiber padding, and it is impressive, with a solid comfort that gives you a sense of the future, even if it's not down. This is not only because the padding itself has excellent performance, but there is no doubt that it has been achieved through a number of other factors, such as a supple, soft lining (Atomos™ 15 denier), and overall lightness.

When I climbed Mt. Tanigawa in December, I was surrounded by gas and wind at around minus 5 degrees (actually due to the effects of the wind, I felt much lower), and I came down from the summit to the shoulder hut and had a snack and wore it all the time. the Generator Alpine on top of the shell , my body began to feel warm, and it was completely unaffected by the wind or the outside air, so I thought I would be able to stay comfortably forever. As I will mention later, it shuts out the cold air from outside and fits comfortably on the body, and the hood, cuffs and hem are perfect (the bottom is so windy that the tripod falls over, so the photo below is taken on the ridgeline a little further down from the shoulder hut).

Next, I also tried out how warm the jacket feels when it gets wet. I deliberately wool short-sleeved T-shirt (so much so that it would lose its heat retention if it was down), but the loft didn't collapse even when it was wet, and it still managed to do the job well. The padding dries faster than I expected, and I was impressed by its strength against wetting.

Unfortunately, the stuff sack has been omitted for 2023 season, so I packed it into another stuff sack and checked it out. I think it would be a little smaller if it was compressed, but about the equivalent of two 1L Nalgene bottles? Is that so?

I'll try holding it in my hand. Considering the warmth and volume, I am impressed that it is not so bulky, but rather that it can be compressed to such a good extent.

Comfort and fit: It's true so I'll say it over and over again. The goodness of the Rab pattern is the perfect plate

For those who always visit this site, you may soon hear an octopus, but this is true, so please let me know as many times as you like. Whether it's a jacket, a top, a pants, or a glove, any of the Rab clothing items have never been uncomfortable. What's more, she's stylish and sexy. I'm always sure to say this. The beauty of the pattern is not simply that the silhouette when it is stopped is good, but you can see that it is especially visible when worn in active situations.

This Generator Alpine has a loose shape for its size, and the waist is not too narrow (photo below). The hem is much lower than the waist, and the back is even longer, providing full coverage to the hips.

This loose cutting meets the requirements you would expect from a belay jacket. Even when worn over the shell, there is no tightness, and while there is room, there is no extra slack anywhere, I am satisfied with the exquisite loose fit.

When I wore size M at 176cm and 64kg, it was easy to put on and take off over a tightly worn winter mountain outerwear, and there was no sense of tightness.

The usual skillful three-dimensional cutting does not wavy, slip or tense out the fabric even when it comes to large movements such as raising and lowering the arm, and there is no stress when wearing it. Of course, this comfort remains the same in a relaxing space such as inside a tent, and once you wear it you'll want to wear it forever.

Durability and weather resistance: Windproof surface fabric that combines lightness and strength

The outer fabric of the jacket is also mapped using the ultra-thin, lightweight, weather-resistant and durable Pertex® Quantum Pro, which is also used to map it to two different types. Diamond Fuse, which is particularly prone to wear, is a cutting-edge fabric that uses yarn with diamond-shaped filaments, to create a flatter fabric surface than conventional circular threads. As a result, it is robust and can withstand hard rock surfaces due to wear and snags. Although it is quite thin, it is clearly smooth and is a material that is resistant to rubbing. On the other hand, the back and underarms are made of lightweight, recycled Pertex® Quantum Pro ripstop fabric with a thinner feel.

These outer fabrics are not waterproof and do not have DWR (so-called durable water repellent) treatment, so although they are water resistant to some degree, if they are exposed to the rain for a little while, the jacket will get wet immediately. However, as mentioned above, even if the filling gets wet, the insulation performance will be maintained at a high standard, so you can rest assured. In any case, once it gets wet, the jacket will become heavy, so to avoid such a situation, we recommend DIYing it to treat it with a water-repellent treatment.

Although it is somewhat water resistant compared to regular plain fabrics, it is not waterproof.

Functionality and usability: Nothing about the utmost ease of use, specialized for winter mountains

Generator Alpine has plenty of storage space to keep you stress-free in tough situations such as winter mountains, as well as convenient parts and specifications that are designed to be easy to use in every detail.

First, the hood is adjustable to keep out the cold air and fit perfectly, whether over a helmet or directly over your head. It follows you easily when you swing your face from side to side, and the brim part is firmly protected by the hard wire.

The front zipper is a double zipper that won't get in the way even when worn over the harness. Of course, the YKK vislon zipper is resistant to freezing, making it extremely smooth to move. Incidentally, all of the zippers on this jacket have large zip pullers (pull handles) that are easy to grip even when gloves are attached.

There are three pockets in total. First, the basic hand warmer pocket.

It also comes with a chest pocket that is easy to use even when wearing the waist belt of your backpack or harness. It is large enough to fit a large 6.7-inch smartphone.

On the inside there are large inner staff pockets on the left and right so that they can fit gloves on them.

The cuffs that are easy to open and close can be adjusted with Velcro, and when spread out, the larger the sleeves pass smoothly even when wearing gloves.

The cord lock installed to adjust the size of the hood and hem is also gentle on the gloves, allowing for reliable, stress-free operation.

Summary: The more difficult the situation, the more reliable the winter mountain winter jacket is, the more impressive it is

I have tried many high-end belay jackets using the "Primaloft® Gold Insulation with Cross Core™" such as the Patagonia DAS Parka and the NORRONA trollveggen Primaloft100 Zip Hood Generator Alpine Jacket is currently delved down to the smallest detail possible.

Its outstanding insulation performance and excellent lightweight and compactness are all attractive no matter what, but it is not only beautiful that it has a subtle design, a comfortable fit that is easy to move in, ample storage, and easy-to-use parts, and is perfect for use in almost every aspect. As a result, it can be well regarded not only as a niche use of belay jackets, but also as an all-rounder for winter wear that is suitable for a variety of winter activities.

Finally, I would like to talk about Japan only, but it is also worth noting that it is affordable for such a high-end model. Japan's Rab has top-class performance, but also has extremely high cost performance. It is not clear whether this situation will last for a long time, so in that sense it is no exaggeration to say that it is a piece of clothing that mountaineers aiming to go winter mountains should pick up.