800 and 900 FPs are obvious. Down jacket for mountain lovers 2018

Tuesday, November 20, 2018

Written by Yasushi Hisatomi

Personally, I almost never bring a down jacket with me on mountain climbs, assuming I'll be actively using it, unless there are very specific circumstances. The reason is simple: it's difficult to use when climbing. When climbing, you often sweat a lot, so if you keep wearing a down jacket, it quickly becomes stuffy inside. You have to take it off and put it back on every time you take a break. Also, if the down jacket does get wet, its overwhelmingly superior heat retention is gone. It's also a hassle to care for. Meanwhile, the performance of synthetic insulation has been steadily improving recently. It feels like the need for down jackets for general mountain climbing is fading day by day

However, this does not mean that this item has become useless at this point. In terms of insulation (heat retention) per weight, it is still head and shoulders above the rest, so a down jacket can provide great peace of mind even though it only takes up the volume of two fists when rolled up

Even if you don't use it frequently, if you feel that your usual gear is just too cold, it's like a trusty talisman that will come in handy and provide you with the ultimate warmth when you really need it. I think that's fine. In this article, I'll introduce some down jackets that I've carefully selected as a reliable partner for autumn/winter and snow-covered mountain climbing, focusing on models that are easy to use in the mountains

table of contents

What to look for in a down jacket for mountain climbing
Featured Down Jackets for the 2018-2019 Season

What to look for in a down jacket for mountain climbing

The first thing you want from a down jacket for mountain climbing is it's as light and compact as possible . Preferably, it weighs around 300g or less. Of course, as a mid-layer, it's better to have some insulation, but for mountain climbing where you're only going to wear it for breaks or bivouacs, aside from stargazing or fishing in the middle of winter, where you'll be standing still in the cold for long periods of time, there's no need for extraordinary insulation to withstand the extreme cold of the Himalayas. In that sense, a sleeveless "vest-style" jacket would be fine depending on how you use it.

Other considerations include whether the materials, parts, finishes, and specifications are designed for use in the mountains, with consideration given to upper body exercise, strong winds, light rain, external impacts, etc. Finally, if the design is also excellent for everyday wear, then nothing else matters

For information on how to choose a mid-layer, including a down jacket, please see this article

It's about time to summarize how to choose a middle layer

Featured Down Jackets for the 2018-2019 Season

Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer Hooded Down Jacket

Ghost Whisperer Hooded Down Jacket

Mountain Hardwear

221g (M size) (S size actual measurement 205g)

Weight/Portability ★★★ Insulation ★★☆ Functionality ★★★ Design ★★★

a comparative review I conducted shortly after starting this website, when I was still feeling my way around . I've looked at many down jackets over the years since then, but personally, I have yet to see a model that has reached a higher level of perfection than this one. Although there have been minor tweaks, its ease of use has remained unchanged ever since, so it could be said to have earned a place in the hall of fame.

The filling is made of 800FP high-loft down and is treated with NIKWAX water-repellent coating, which makes it less susceptible to moisture-induced collapse, a weakness of down. It also has been RDS certified since some time ago, proving that the waterfowl it is made from are treated humanely and appropriately. While it is a masterpiece, the company has not forgotten to strive to refine its interior to keep up with the times

This high-performance down is packed in just the right amount of volume to maintain warmth. The ultra-fine, high-density, water-repellent ripstop nylon combines strength and flexibility, and features a drawcord at the hem, a comfortable hood, and stretchy cuffs to keep warmth in. The result is a warm, yet weight-only 205g (measured in a small size). The right pocket is packable, so you don't need an extra stuff sack. Of course, the precise three-dimensional cut means there's almost no tension from upper body movement, and every detail has been carefully considered for mountain use. The sophisticated, basic form and coloring, along with the lack of unnecessary rustle, make this jacket perfectly suited to everyday wear

Packed with ample warmth and versatility, this down jacket is so light you'll forget its weight, and wrapped in a sophisticated design, it's the perfect all-around down jacket for mountain enthusiasts. It's important to note that the amount of down is only moderate, so you can't expect the overwhelming warmth and fluffy feel you expect from down jackets. It's an essential talisman for autumn and early winter, when temperatures fluctuate dramatically and it's hard to know what gear to bring, and it's also perfect as an outer layer for long nights camping in cooler weather, and as a mid-layer for backcountry skiing in winter

Mont-Bell Plasma 1000 Alpine Down Parka

Plasma 1000 Alpine Down Parka

mont bell

236g (US model S size actual measurement is also 236g)

Weight/Portability ★★☆ Insulation ★★★ Functionality ★★☆ Design ★★☆

Montbell is one of the few Japanese brands offering high-quality EX down with a "1000FP" rating, boasting top-class resilience. The Plasma 1000 is a lightweight mountain down jacket. While the 1000 rating is a 25% increase compared to, say, an 800FP down jacket, the actual warmth retention is said to be a whopping 38% ( according to Montbell research ). You'll feel the insurmountable difference from the moment you pick it up. It's not just light. Despite this amount of down, its incredible resilience, which seamlessly fills the gap between your body and the garment, is an impressive feat that can only be found in a limited number of models worldwide.

The down's incredible resilience is sealed in with a 7-denier, ultra-fine, high-strength Ballistic® nylon outer and inner lining, and a unique quilted pattern with minimal seams, resulting in exceptional warmth and lightness. The jacket also offers the same reliable functionality as always, with drawcords for a secure seal at the hood and hem, elastic cuffs, and a front zipper with a flap

And what's most pleasing is the existence of a "US model." While I've often been put off by Montbell jackets due to their generally wide body and short sleeves, this model is delightfully available in a slimmer US model with longer sleeves. It's simply the best. Keep one of these in your pack at all times and you'll be safe even on winter mountain hikes. It comes with a stuff sack

Arc'teryx Cerium LT Hoody

Cerium LT Hoody

Arc'teryx

305g (S size actual weight 276g)

Weight/Portability ★★☆ Insulation ★★★ Functionality ★★★ Design ★★★

This is another our 2015 comparison review . It uses the finest 850FP white goose down, ensuring excellent resilience. The fabric is made of ultra-fine, highly durable Arato™ 10 nylon. The slim silhouette leaves no gaps around the body, yet the three-dimensional cut allows for stress-free bending and stretching of the arms. While it is a little heavier than the other jackets we've reviewed, its actual weight of around 200g is still quite light compared to other jackets, and its warmth is excellent.

But Arc'teryx doesn't stop there. In fact, by mapping synthetic fiber padding to areas that are prone to getting wet, such as the head, shoulders, underarms, and cuffs, they have devised a way to minimize the impact of the loss of heat retention due to wetting. In other words, you don't have to worry about moisture, which is a weakness of down, and it can be used even when you are somewhat active. When I actually used it, I found that while most down jackets get stuffy inside as soon as you start moving and get hot, this one really wicks away sweat

The hood has a drawcord that allows you to fit it to your head with one touch. I was considering this model and the even lighter Cerium SL Hoodie, but I chose the LT model because it offers a better balance of lightness and warmth, making it more versatile. If you plan to use it as a talisman, the SL would be more suitable

THE NORTH FACE Astrolite Hoodie

Astrolite Hoody

THE NORTH FACE

325g (L size) (actual measurement of M size is 297g)

Weight/Portability ★☆☆ Insulation ★★★ Functionality ★☆☆ Design ★★★

This brand's down products are apparently selling like hotcakes all over Japan, but the one that caught my eye was a rather modest model. The down used here is the real deal, made with 900FP Eastern European goose down that has been polished to the highest quality using advanced cleaning technology, among the many other down jackets from the brand

What sets this jacket apart from other serious mountaineering jackets is that it's designed for both mountain and city use. This is evidenced by the fact that it uses a texture-focused 20-denier nylon outer fabric and a basic nylon taffeta lining, which doesn't exactly emphasize lightweight and durability. The hem, cuffs, and hood are also a bit loose (they don't seal), which is a bit of a concern

However, it is worth noting that the baffle structure, which involves bonding the front and back in places and weaving the fabric like a bag, minimizes cold spots and achieves a high level of both lightness and warmth. The fabric is water-repellent, has a slim fit for a North face jacket, and has a front zipper with a flap, making it suitable for use in the mountains. This makes it a good model for people who want to use it mainly in the city, camping, or snow hiking, rather than in the mountains

the Ultimate Down Hoody, released in the SUMMIT series . Personally, I think the way they've expanded their lineup shows the momentum and business sense of The North Face these days.

Rab Zero G Jacket

Zero G Jacket

Rab

310g (Large size)

Weight/Portability ★☆☆ Insulation ★★★ Functionality ★★★ Design ★☆☆

Rab, which began by developing down products for true climbers, remains true to its roots to this day, and its uncompromising approach to down products is unparalleled. Their determination to reach the pinnacle, their commitment, and the resulting unwavering high quality are always admirable. While the Microlight Alpine Jacket has been Rab's signature down jacket in recent years, this model is a flagship lightweight down jacket, a Rab-esque ultra-lightweight technical down jacket that strives for extreme quality

Like the Montbell jacket above, it uses the highest quality 1000FP European goose down, and we believe it contains even more down than the Montbell, making it the best insulated jacket we've introduced here. Furthermore, the fabric used on the front and back is 7-denier Pertex Quantum® GL, developed by Pertex for Rab, which is 20% lighter than regular down

Let's take a look at the details. The cut and fit are typical of Rab, quite slim, but with perfect three-dimensional cutting for a stress-free fit. The sleeves are still long. The front zipper is a durable Vislon zipper that is resistant to low temperatures and has a windproof flap on the back. The hand warmer pockets are positioned high so they don't interfere with harnesses. The cuffs are made of a stretchy material that fits snugly, giving a clean look around the wrists. With a stiff hood and elastic hem, the more you look at it, the more flawless it becomes. This garment is like a meal made with only the finest ingredients. I'm full

Needless to say, this high-performance down jacket is focused on winter alpine climbing, and it functions perfectly as a mid-layer or outer layer in dry environments in any extreme situation, including severe winter. However, it's a bit too edgy for city use. In any case, if you're lucky enough to be able to wear it, you should enjoy it to the fullest, as it is a piece that symbolizes Rab's philosophy

What to look for in a down jacket for mountain climbing

For information on how to choose a mid-layer, including a down jacket, please see this article

Featured Down Jackets for the 2018-2019 Season

Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer Hooded Down Jacket

Mont-Bell Plasma 1000 Alpine Down Parka

Arc'teryx Cerium LT Hoody

THE NORTH FACE Astrolite Hoodie

Rab Zero G Jacket

We also recommend this article about middle layers.